Kh 13 - Baphuon, Phimeanakas and Preah Palilay

BAPHUON

"The Tower of Bronze ... a truly astonishing spectacle, with more than ten chambers at its base."
- Chou Ta-Kuan (1266-1346 AD) a Chinese diplomat under the Temur Khan, Emperor Chengzong of Yuan.

Baphuon
Built by King Udayadityavarman II in mid 11th century dedicated to Hindu god - Shiva

From left : the sandstone causeway that connected Baphuon from the east side with Terrace of the Elephant; causeway that has been restored - this temple been restored in two different period, abandoned circa 1970's due to Khmer Rouge's civil war.

From left : one of distinctive features of Baphuon is its causeway pillars - only this temple has cylinder pillars that used to support the sandstone causeway; Baphuon from the causeway - eastern side.

From left : a ruined cruciform gopura of Baphuon; this temple still undergoing restoration by French-led team - expected to end in 2009. The main problems faced by the team due to its foundation. The temple built on land filled with sands thus make this massive building unstable and easily collapse.

PHIMEANAKAS

" ... a golden tower, to the top of which the ruler ascends nightly. It is common belief that in the tower dwells a genie, formed like a serpent with nine heads, which is Lord of the entire Kingdom. Every night this genie appears in the shape of a woman, with whom the sovereign couples. Not even the wives of the King may enter here. At the second watch the King come forth and is then free to sleep with his wives and concubines."
- Chou Ta-Kuan; description about the Phimeanakas.

Phimeanakas or Prasat Phimean Akas means the Celestial Temple, some described it as the Palace of Heaven. First built by King Rajendravarman (941-968 AD) at the end of 10th century, then rebuild back by King Suryavarman I. This temple then being absorbed into Angkor Thom which has been built few hundred years later.

From left : blocks of stone at the upper level of Phimeanakas; view from the central tower of Phimeanakas.

From left : the central tower - guess this is the place that the King will sleep with the genie-lady every night before he allowed to sleep with his wives or concubines. "Legend say that if the King miss a night - his Kingdom will strike by calamity."; narrow steps ascending to the top of Phimeanaks. "For those who has phobia of height or simply non O-blood group - better take precaution before ascending on top of the temple!"

From left : more views of Phimeanakas; damaged elephant statues at the corner of each level with lions flanking the stairs.

From left : paved bathing ponds - the smaller for women while the larger for the men. "Legend say that the King has 10 wives and nearly 2,000 concubines. I wonder how did he rotate all of them to sleep with him every night. He must be a very STRONG guy!"; Northern gate to Preah Palilay.

PREAH PALILAY

Built around 13th to 14th century. It was believed to be built for Buddha, although some images showed Hindu idols. The most distinctive features is the chimney-like tower at the center of the temple.

From left : the temple being restored to its original feature. "Lucky for you Fuaz that you got your chance to see this temple with enormous Kapok tree roots the temple. Next time when you come here - you wouldn't get to see this picturesque trees." Dara told me. "Lucky me - I guess"; image showed Buddha give blessing to animal.

Kh 12 - Prasat Bayon; the Highest Achievement of Khmer Architecture

"It is the most striking expression of baroque style of Khmer architecture as contrasted with the classical style of Angkor Wat"
- Japanese Government Team for Safeguarding Angkor (JSA)

Lokesvara face of Bayon

• Yeah, I kinda agree the statement from JSA - a helping hand agency from Japan that helped in the restoration process of Bayon. Guess - after enjoying Angkor Wat, it a different feeling when you stumbled in front the magnificent architecture of Bayon.
• Bayon is the first temple you will cross into from the South-Gate of Angkor Thom.
• It was built by King Jayavarman VII at the end of 12th century dedicated for Buddha.
• Some scholars believed that this temple intended to embrace all religion during that time - Buddha, Hindu, animist and even Islamic beliefs of the newly conquered Champs.
• It's been famous for its HUGE smiley faces on the tower. The faces - most of it four on each towers, represent Lokesvara as this temple dedicated to Buddha. However, some of these image have been alter to Shiva by adding the Third-Eye by the subsequent monarch when Hindu become the religion of the ruler - King Jayavarman VIII.
• Another striking things about Bayon is its bas-relief - a nice carving on their both inner and outer gallery. Its told about the furious naval battle of Tonle Sap between the Khmer army and Champs. This battle has been won by Khmer.
• We can learn a lot on how the Khmer lived during that time. There's drawing on their daily works, boat, fisherman, food preparation, and how they engaged during conversation and in games such as cockfights and wrestling.
  

From left : their daily activities; the Battle of Tonle Sap - "We can see the difference of Khmer army and Champs as the later wears wig over their head - or is it their hair style, hmm".

From left - one of the four-faces tower of Lokesvara, "Cautions - mind your steps!".

From left : "You can enjoy the forest of tower that each carved with enormous expression and gigantic smiles of Lokesvara"; Apsara dancers on its wall.

From left : small space between the inner gallery and the upper terrace; views of Bayon from the west exit.

From left : just wanna take five; Dara seems enjoying view of 'Minah Salleh' - "and here I thought you're honest husband with one child!".

From left : Guess we looks alike - well, even the Cambodian thought I'm local!; Apsara anyone? - from the amateur.

"Is it a direct translation - Huh?"

Kh 11 - Angkor Thom - Atlantis of Plato?

"The wall of the city some 5 miles in circumference. It has 5 gates each with double portals... Outside the wall stretches a great moat, across which access to the city is given by massive causeways. Flanking the causeways on each side are 54 divinities resembling war-loads in stone, huge and terrifying ... "
-Chou Ta-Kuan, a Chinese envoy that visited the Khmer empire late 13th century.

Angkor Thom's South-Gate

• Guess I need to continue to update my travel blog of Cambodia.
• It's kinda tired when you need to do a straights 6 weeks courses and field works - that's why I enjoy my work!
• OK, Angkor Thom definitely large, even larger than Angkor Wat.
• But this complex is not a temple, but a huge number of temples that concentrated in an area that up to 9 km square and fortified with wonderful walls.
• It has 5 main gates, each faced at different cardinal with an additional one - Victory Gate on the east side.
• The most preserved gate is the South Gate - clearly showed a 4 faces tower, some believe that one of them is Avalokitesvara; a bodhisattva that embodies all Buddha's compassion.
• Its surrounds by huge moats with causeways span to the each tower.
• This huge temple complex contains the famous Bayon, Baphuon, Phimeanakas, Terrace of Elephants and Terrace of Leper King.
  

From left : Each gates has a 4-faces tower - each represent Buddha, Shiva, Vishnu and animist; in front the south gate on its causeway.

The causeways made by rows of devas (on the left side) and asuras (on the right side). Both being distinct by their eyes - the devas has almond-like shape eyes while the asuras or demons are rounded. This idols are all holding the Naga, taken from the scene of Churning of the Ocean of Milk or Samudra Manthan - the famous episodes from the Hindu's teaching.

My 1 - A Glimpse of Paloh

Pohon Epu or Pokok Ipoh in the compound of Ipoh Train Station

Break from my travelogue of Siem Reap and Bangkok.

Welcome to Ipoh - the town that built on Tin, famous for its white coffee and one of the most scenic town in Malaysia. Ipoh was established around 1800; first started as small village at the banks of Kinta river.

From left : St Michael's Institution - established by St John Baptist De La Salle, Indian-Muslim Community Mosque - built around 1900's.

Thanks to Sir Frank Athelstane Swettenham - the first Resident General of the Federated Malay Stetes that put fourth the establishment of Ipoh Sanitary Board, the development of Ipoh city become more systematic thus attracted major British companies to invest in Ipoh.

Kellie's Castle and the Kellas House - this ruined castle / mansion was built by William Kellie Smith dedicated for his wife, Agnes. Unfortunately this massive mansion unfinished due to the death of its owner of pneumonia and the spread of Spanish flu virus among the workers.

The city was taken it's name from 'pohon epu' or nowadays known as 'pokok ipoh' that famous for its poisonous sap used by Orang Asli to coat their darts.

From left - Ipoh Train Station, District Council of Kinta Barat's office - once the residency of Sir Frank Swettenham when he was British Resident of Perak.

Ipoh nowadays become the capital state of Perak, famous for its beautiful surroundings and tasty foods. Lucky for me to have a chance to appreciate its beauty.

Tempurung limestone cave - one of the oldest cave in Peninsular Malaysia