“He who does not travel does not know the value of men.”- Moorish proverb

Wednesday, 26 November 2008

Our Story not 'His' Story - Past, Present and Future

"to represent a masterpiece of human creative genius ";
"to bear a unique or at least exceptional testimony to a cultural tradition or to a civilization which is living or which has disappeared";
"to be an outstanding example of a type of building, architectural or technological ensemble or landscape which illustrates (a) significant stage(s) in human history";
Selection criteria I, III and IV of UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Istana Lama Seri Menanti, Negeri Sembilan, not a UNESCO World Heritage List but our country's heritage. Steps must be taken to ensure that this and other buildings wil survive and maintain properly.

When I travel, the most fascinating about the country - is their heritage and history. Guess you guys still remember during our World Civilization History in Form 4, High School - where we've been introduced with histories around the world that shaped into our 'story' right now. Given a chance to explore and enjoy it by yourself make you feel appreciate on what our ancestors have achieved and what should we do to improve it and make it better if not the best.

I know that History subject is the most 'boring' subject that been thought in our education system. It's not because of the lesson, but perhaps the way it been thought. I remember during my time, my school teacher just open the text book and read it - paragraph by paragraph till end of the book infront of us. Nothing inspire us even though the topic about Prophet Muhammad and Islamic Civilization. Hmm, I remember that a lot of us fell asleep - "it's a bedtime story what!"

Giza Pyramid Complex; UNESCO World Heritage List Criteria I, III and VI

OK; countries that I've been - Egypt, the Philippines, Cambodia and Thailand have histories that influence our life nowadays. The things that impressed me on how the preserved their heritage. They maintain their buildings, educate both locals and foreign tourist and make a lot of effort so that their future / children knows about their past.

I remember one of my discussion with Dara in Siem Reap about Angkor on how the people refuse to remember about Angkor as it reminds them about the horrific past, wars, endless suffering etc. The Cambodians need to pay on high price to regain back their past from the French that 'loot' it and brought it back to Europe and claimed as their history. It's sad to see that the outsiders know better about your 'home' compared to you.


From left : Angkor - UNESCO World Heritage Site Criteria I, II, III and IV; Wat Arun - Temple of Dawn, Bangkok - famous landmark that preserve well but not in the list.

And its even worst when didn't take step to learn about your past and let it destroy by time. From the past that actually we can learn about the glory and mistakes by our ancestors, thus we will help to build a better future.

I do hope that people, the government and others will hell hand-by-hand to preserve our heritage; educate our children so that we shouldn't forget about it and learn from it.




From left, up-to-down : Kellie's Castle with Samawi; St. Michael's Institution - Ipoh; Indian-Muslim Community Mosque - Ipoh; hallway of Kellie's Castle. These buildings eventhough its not grande monuments but still our heritage, thus we should preserve it for the next generation.

Mayhem at Suvarnabhumi Airport

BANGKOK (Reuters) 261108 - Anti-government protesters tightened their grip over Bangkok's international airport on Wednesday, causing chaos in the terminal and triggering speculation of imminent intervention by the military.

I'm watching news right now - 261108 @ 8.02pm.
MasyaAllah - the international airport have been hold by the PAD followers.
AlhamduliLlah; lucky for me that I already back in KL. I didn't want to be trapped there.

Suvarnabhumi International Airport, Bangkok

But I feel sad that the city - Bangkok is nice and very tourist-friendly and situation like this will make tourist stay away from Bangkok. Hope the situation will change and Bangkok will become one of popular destination in South East Asia.

Saturday, 22 November 2008

Kh 10 – Angkor’s Golden Age; One of the Most Celebrated King!

"He suffered from the illnesses of his subjects more than from his own; the pain that affected men's bodies were for him a spiritual pain, and thus more piercing."

- Inscription about King Jayavarman VII

King Jayavarman VII

Since the arrival of King Jayavarman II (802-850 AD) to Phnom Kulen, Angkor has been flourished as one of recognized empire in Indo-China besides Siam and Champa. He was thought to come from Java and established the nation called Kambujadesa and claimed throne as the first Khmer King. After several wars that put the Angkor / Khmer empire suffered some decline period, it has regained its status as one of the strong nation under the reign of King Jayavarman VII (1125-1215 AD). He led the Khmer troops in war over the Champs and reclaimed the Angkor after a furious naval battle at the Tonle Sap. His successful story was engraved at the bas-relief of Bayon.


From left : West-gate of Angkor Thom, Bayon - King JayavarmanVII's achievement.

Why I choose to write about him, not others? As a follower of Mahayana Buddhist, he takes his people's suffering seriously. He was committed to built numerous monuments that not just dedicated to his ancestors - but buildings like hospital / public works that can benefit his people.


One of it that impress me most is Neak Pean - which not truly a temple that dedicated to certain idols, but for the purpose of serving common people. It serves as hospital during that time - where commoners seek treatments and the priest asked divine from Gods for the remedies.



From left : a one time hospital-temple - Neak Pean, Prasat Preah Khan built on the ste of King Jayavarman II's victory over invading Chams.

Another thing that struck me is how tolerance he is about religion. According to Dara, “He’s not extreme to any religion even though he himself a Buddhist. He built Angkor Thom and Bayon - symbols for all religion that includes Buddha, Hindu, animist and even Islam that was brought by the Champs. They enjoy the Golden Age of Angkor during his reign.”


Well, that one of King that I consider to have – the one that didn’t just build monument for himself like Pharaoh of Egypt; but the one that care about the common people. Even nowadays we’ve seen some leaders decide to care only their relatives richness and wealth and make others suffer.


Nowadays, Cambodia named their main hospital in Siem Reap - King Jayavarman VII Hospital as a dedication on the King's contribution especially to up brings the nation health. Well - its showed that every good deeds will one day become much appreciated; if not during his time but by later generation.



From left : Ta Phrom was dedicated to his mother, while Ta Som dedicating Kin Jayavarman II's father.

Wednesday, 19 November 2008

Kh 9 - The Angkor Wat - Suryavarman II's Grand Masterpiece

"One of these temple - a rival to that of Solomon, and erected by some ancient Michelangelo - might take an honourable place beside our most beautiful buildings. It is grander than anything left to us by Greece or Rome, and presents a sad contrast to the state of barbarism in which the nation is now plunged."
Henri Mouhot (1826-1861),
on his remarks that popularise Angkor Wat to the West.
Infront Angkor Wat

Only on my third day we went to the Angkor Wat. Well, you need to save the best at last. My mission to complete another tour to one of the Wonders of the World yet not achieved. After visit to Egypt to enjoy the Grand Pyramid of Giza in 2001, I've made another move to the remaining list. Eventhough Angkor Wat is not in the Ancient Wonders of World as compiled by Antipater of Sidon in Greek Anthology IX.58 around 140 BC; I blamed it to the Greek as he couldn't make trip to this side of the world. For those who have experienced it, Angkor Wat can be as majestic as others.


From left : one of the lion guardian of Angkor Wat, west gopura with 3 towers - the southern part contain statue of Vishnu

For Cambodian, Angkor Wat acted as source of national pride and one of big income for them. This temple has been part of their life hundred years back as evidence of this image in their national flag - dated back since 1863. And with 600,000 ++ tourist visited this place every year thus represented more than 50% of total Cambodian tourist, you can do the count on how much this will generate the local's economic growth. King Survayarman II would never imagine that Angkor Wat or Preah Pisnulok (the old name for Angkor Wat) - which once exclusively for the Kings and Palace Priest will be full of common people nowadays.


From left : bas-reliefs of Battle of Lanka from the epic Ramayana, clash between 2 cousins - Kauravas and Pandavas as being told in Mahabharata.


From left : King Yama on His water buffalo from Heaven & Hell gallery, Vishnu in the Churning of the Ocean of Milk - where devas and asuras tug on the serpent Vasuki to produce amrita (elixir of immortality).


From left : steps to the central sanctuary of Angkor Wat, Apsaras - one of the creation from Churning of the Ocean of Milk - others are three headed elephant; Airavana and the goddess of beauty; Lakshimi.

This temple was built around / circa 12th century - means "City Temple" dedicated to Vishnu and later Buddha. Its a great achievement for the Khmer temple architecture in terms of its size and resources used. It is designed to represent Mount Meru, home of the devas in Hindu mythology: within a moat and an outer wall plus three rectangular galleries, each raised above the next. At the centre of the temple stands a quincunx of towers. Unlike most Angkorian temples, Angkor Wat is oriented to the west; that scholars are still divided as to the significance of this. Some conclude that Suryavarman II intended it to serve as his funerary temple while others think its alignment was due to its dedication to Vishnu, who was associated with the west. What ever the reason - Angkor Wat has drawn praise above all for the harmony of its design, which has been compared to the architecture of ancient Greece or Rome.


From left : sandstones block as the main building material (good in absorbing water) and laterite from Phnom Kulen as outerwall, one of the Angkor Wat's tower.


From left : gallery of Thousand Buddha, Sanskrit inscriptions on one of the gallery's column.

Now, with thousands of visitor came to this site - Angkor Wat has been exposed with danger / damage made by human. Restoration and conservation works still ongoing and depends a lot on foreigners investment. But with this kind of project, I couldn't explore this site much as some are still closed including the central tower - WOW! another blow to me after the 1000 lingas of Phnom Kulen. And another thing - not much picture that I can upload through this blog.





From above left to right : both showed different scene of northwest tower, infront one of library in Angkor Wat, another scene of northwest tower - this time from the Echo Room, both pictures showed inside pools at the first level of the temple.

Sunday, 16 November 2008

Kh 8 - Hopes for Cambodian

Kingdom of Cambodia

Preăh Réachéanachâkr Kâmpŭchea
Royaume du Cambodge

We've spent several hours in Prasat Beng Mealea till hour to dawn. We've discussed a lot of things particularly about Angkor temples. One of it on how much Dara and the locals appreciated the foreigner helps them restore these heritage sites. Billions of dollar from various countries and organizations helps them to provide works and expertise - just to make sure this site being conserve and restored for future benefits. With this - it can generate income for the locals that most lives below poverty line.


From left : tractor that used by locals for transportation and delivering goods, kampung house - noted its high not because of flood but for resting place during hot and dry season.

"Dara, I just wanna asked you on some - sensitive issues." I broke the silence. "Yup, what is it?" asked Dara. "I wonder - your ancestors being so great at their time with skills and a lot of resources can built these magnificent monuments. How come your generation unable to at least restore it back? Don't you guys have the similar skills to do it? Why need to depends on others a.k.a foreigner to help you guys with these works." "Even the French explorer found these temples after it being left hundred years deep inside Cambodian rain forest" I added. As he take a deep breath, he replied to me. "Yes, our ancestors have a great skill to build this mega-project but do to certain things like war, disaster - we've leave this place and left the forest to take care of it. Not much writings left for us as a guidance to rebuild it again. I would rather say that the glory of Angkor has left us. Wars really have make us lost many years to develop our country and we can't afford more wars that can ruin our future. That's why we really thanks those who helps us and we try our best to avoid any more war." explained Dara.


From left : area have been declared of landmines free - this one with cooperation from German agency, kampung houses.

Our journey back have exposed me on how do the people lives in the rural area. Houses like our kampung built by bamboos and I don't know what other trees as Dara had difficulty in translating it into English. Some houses even build by using plank woods. I realized a lot of political parties banner infront of these houses. "Do you guys just finished your election?" another sensitive issue that I accidentally asked. "Yup" replied Dara, short. Even one of the political party's logo looks like PAS with Khmer words around the circle - The Human Rights Party. "Here in Cambodia is more on like one party government with the Cambodian People's Party led by Hun Sen won recently. Other major opposition parties like Sam Rainsy Party, Human Rights Party, and FUNCINPEC party took place in this election." explained him further. "So, who do you vote?" there I dig my own grave to discuss about this issue. Well - can't restrained much as I too concerned about political issues back in Malaysia. "I've voted for Sam Rainsy - as being prominent leader in Cambodia and he vows better future for this country. But lots of people especially those staying in the rural voted CPP as they have been supplying goods before the election itself. They forgot, who actually made them poor at the first place. Even most the government institute fulls of corruption" added him further. Well it seems doesn't make much different compared to Malaysia where money is everything. "But here - in Cambodia, the current government doesn't thing much of the people. They just wanna make their relatives rich" spoke Dara in a sad tone. This situation happen in country where lots of their people still lack of education. For me, people like Dara is great - living in this kind situation but yet able to think about his country's future.

We've reached Siem Reap after 2 hours of ride. Tomorrow we will visiting Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom. So a good nights for me for the nice visits tomorrow.


From left : National Peadiatric Hospital in Phnom Penh - health facilities like this still lacking especially in rural area thus not many have acsess to it, Human Rights Party.

“All travel has its advantages. If the passenger visits better countries, he may learn to improve his own. And if fortune carries him to worse, he may learn to enjoy it.” - Samuel Johnson (1709-1784); English essayist, lexicographer, biographer and poet.